The Joydick is a wearable haptic device for controlling video gameplay based on realtime male masturbation. Through the use of a carefully designed strap-on interface, the user’s penis is converted into a joystick capable of moving the character onscreen in all four cardinal directions. For games requiring the fire button, a separate ring can be worn which converts hand-strokes into button presses.

The Theory

The ”core mechanic” is the action a player does over and over again during game play. This may be rolling dice or it may be frantically pressing a button. Although, this behavior tends to vary, the objective of this behavior is always the same, to win the game.

Our impetus to win can be seen as a drive towards transcendence. A transcendence that is both over death and, in a sense, a metaphorical death. Winning a video game is much like what Martin Heidegger referred to as becoming a “being towards death.” That is a self-realized individual who has overcome uncertainty in life, reconciled their place in the universe and has acknowledged death within their life.

This simultaneity of both transcendence in life and the acknowledgment of death is also encountered during what the French like to call “la petite morte” or in English, “the little death.” This is the refractory period following sexual climax in which a person can achieve no further orgasm and is filled both with pleasure and melancholy.

It would be reasonable to assert that the tension that builds during gameplay and the release achieved through victory are similar to the events leading up and through a sexual orgasm.

Bringing us full circle, aside from sharing a similar goal and end result, the much more obvious relation between video gameplay and what this haptic technology provides, an expression of masculine sexuality, is that they are both driven by a core mechanic. In the case of male masturbation, the core mechanic is the repeated stimulation of the nerve endings of the penis.

In fact, the similarities between the mechanics and objectives of both sex and video games are so striking that it may be fair to say that gameplay, particular video games, are driven by displaced sexual energy.

This hypothesis can help explain why young, sexually-frustrated males are the largest demographic in the gaming world and why men in general are two times more likely to be avid gamers than women. It is also true that energy misdirected towards video games has been known to destroy marriages and tear apart relationships. In fact, Woman’s Health has published an article called Video Games and Foreplay in their Sex and Relationships column in which they state that women should play more video games as a way to proactively engage with their male partner. What is striking about this, is that by likening video gaming to foreplay and claiming it as a trust-building exercise, Women’s Health Magazine is implying that video games, in some circumstances, have taken the role of actual sexual foreplay.

The link between video gameplay and male sexual stimulation seems quite clear. It is therefor somewhat surprising that (it would seem) up until now, no one has taken the logical step forward and used repeated sexual stimulation as a means for controlling a video game.

Although a number of people have used game controllers as stimulators by creating devices that are reactive to gameplay, a majority of these systems are directed towards female stimulation and are possibly designed as a way to engage frustrated partners in the masturbatory nature of video gameplay. Such thoughts were also alluded to by Jane Pinckard while reviewing the Japanese game Rez which is often sold with a “trance vibrator.”

Given that most sexual gaming interfaces are responsive to gameplay and directed towards female stimulation, the Joydick is a substantial breakthrough and brings the first proactive male-oriented sexual gaming interface to the world.

The Joydick stimulates males both mentally and physically by combining the core mechanic of gameplay with the core mechanic of sexual stimulation.

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Make your own!

You will need:

System

* An Atari and expendable joystick controller – we used the Atari Flashback 2 system.
* A phallus – we used the Flex Gordon from Good Vibrations, you can use your own.
* 5V 500 mA power supply – we used an old cell phone wall charger.
* Tissues
* Five 5V Relays (W107DIP-5)
* 16F877 Pic chip
* 20 MHZ Resonator
* A 40 Pin socket
* 0.1uF ceramic disc capacitor
* Two 10K resistors
* 330 ohm resistor
* Wire
* Female telephone handset jack
* A telephone handset cord
* A PCB (Radioshack #276-150)
* A small thin piece of wood or acrylic

Sensor

* Tilt switch – we used the one we hacked apart from inside the Cube World Dodger Game we had lying around the lab.
* IR LED receiver – Digikey 475-1441-ND
* Coiled telephone cord
* 4.7K resistor
* 220 ohm resistor
* 33K resistor
* 100K resistor
* Art Stuff SR-2330 Silicone and blue pigment
* Two part epoxy

Ring

* IR LED emitter – Digikey 516-1262-ND
* CR2032 3V lithium coin battery
* Coin battery holder – we used one salvaged from old computer mother board
* Stock ring from jewelry or bead store
* Solid core thin gauge wire

Strap

* 1 mil neoprene fabric
* 3/4″ velcro
* 3/4″ elastic banding
* 1/4″ elastic banding

Tools

* Rotary cutter or scissors
* Needle nose pliers
* Electrical pliers
* Wire strippers
* Hot glue gun
* Sewing machine
* Volt meter
* Soldering iron
* Dremel
* Drill
* Two part epoxy

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Make a ring

Like The Lord of The Rings, this epic journey starts with a ring.

The ring emits IR signals which are detected by the base sensor, interpreted by the pic chip, and then sent to the game console as the fire or trigger button signal. Making the ring is easy.

Head down to the local craft or bead store and pick up a blank ring. We cut a slit in our ring so that it would fit over a variety of finger sizes. Then, using a rotary tool, grind down a flat spot on the ring – the coin cell battery holder will be epoxied on there.

Salvage a coin cell battery holder by desoldering one from an old computer mother board and attach it to the ring using epoxy as pictured below.

Then, solder a small wire onto the negative (-) lead from the battery holder and glue it into place on the front of the ring where the IR LED will be installed.

Last, cut the leads of the IR LED as short as possible and solder them onto the end of the negative wire coming from the back of the battery holder and the positive lead coming off of the battery holder so that the LED is pointed towards your pinky finger when wearing the ring on your ring finger.

A small dab of hot glue or epoxy is a good idea to hold the LED in place and protect against shorts.

Power the ring with the 3V coin cell battery.

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Hack Cube World

With the ring (emitter) complete, it’s time to make the sensor. The sensor is comprised of a tilt switch and the phototransistor IR LED’s and phototransistors can be found online from Digikey (see link in materials section).

We needed a 4-way tilt sensor, and just happened to have a few lying around the lab embedded in some game modules called Cube World that we weren’t currently using.

Open up your cube game and locate the tilt sensor. It is the boxy thing in the center that sounds like there is something rattling around inside.

Cut the tilt sensor away from the circuit board by trimming the ribbon cable as close to the circuit board as possible.

Break/cut the tilt switch out of its mounting points to the rest of the cube and free it from its cage. It’s destined for a far greater future.

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Attach Resistors

Desolder the ribbon cable from the tilt sensor. Replace the pins with resistors as follows:

Pin 1: 4.7K
Pin 2: No Connect (for now)
Pin 3: 220 ohm
Pin 4: 33K
Pin 5: 100K

Pins are read left to write when holding the tilt sensor with the solder holes facing closest to you.

You don’t need to solder them in this particular order, but this is the ordering the code is calibrated for.

Pin 2 must be left open for a ground wire.

Attach a single black wire to Pin 2 as this is the ground cable. All four positions on the tilt sensor share this common ground cable.

Lastly, twist all the resistors together with a red wire and solder.

Now for each cardinal direction the tilt sensor will produce a different resistance. The micro controller will be able to read these resistances as different values.

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Testy

Test the tilt sensor and IR LED with the phototransistor to make certain that it works with the code.

Below is the code that was used. It was written in Mbasic which is a variant of Basic designed to work the the Basic Micro PIC development environment. It is pretty simple and can be easily converted to other languages.

CPU = 16F877
MHZ = 20
CONFIG 16254

‘++ Defines’ the variables ++
IRsense var word
tilting var word

‘++ Sets constants for analog in ++
AN0 con 0
CLK con 2
ADSETUP con %10000000

‘ ++ Starts main code loop ++
main:

‘++ Configures analog in pins and reads to IRsense variable ++
ADIN AN0, CLK, ADSETUP, IRsense

‘++ If the ring is close to the button it turns on the fire button relay ++
if IRsense < 50 then
High B6
pause 100
else
Low B6
endif

‘++ code to read the tilt sensor ++
High B1
pause 1
RCTIME B1,1,tilting

pause 1

‘++ Turns on and off direction relays depending on tilt sensor readings ++
if tilting > 0 and tilting < 10 then
High B5
pause 1

else
Low B5

endif

if tilting > 8500 and tilting < 10000 then
High B4
pause 1

else
Low B4

endif

if tilting > 2000 and tilting < 3500 then
High B3
pause 1

else
Low B3

endif

if tilting > 350 and tilting < 400 then
High B2
pause 1

else
Low B2

endif

‘++ Repeats the main loop ++
goto main

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Phone Cord

Cut one end off the phone handset cord and strip back the jacketing so that about 2 inches worth of wire is exposed. There should be four wires. Insert these in a pairs of two through the extra mounting holes in the tilt switch. The two sets should break down as follows:

Set 1: Green and Yellow
Set 2: Red and Brown

Next you are going to want to strip a little off the end of each wire and solder them into place. Use this guide:

- Green connects to the black wire from the switch
- Yellow connects to the four resistors
- Red to connects the long leg of the phototransistor
- Brown connects to the shorter leg

When they are all soldered into place, insulate the connections and set things in place using epoxy. Make sure to pay extra attention to the spot where the phone cord connects to the base sensor as this joint will receive a lot of strain when you use it. Use a tab of extra epoxy to glue the phototransistor into place on the top of the sensor.

Set the sensor aside to dry, it’s done for the time being. It’s now time to work on the strap.

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Start making the strap

The strap holds the sensor in place on the user. It’s adjustable using a velcro closure and is made of soft neoprene so that it’s flexible and comfortable.

Cut a strip of neoprene 2.5″ side and plenty long (more than one foot). Using a zig zag stitch to allow for stretching, fold the neoprene in half and sew a seam along the edge. You should now have a double thick strip of neoprene that is 1.5″ wide.

Trim any excess fabric from the waste edge of the seam.

Using your finger, invert the strip so that the seam is now on the inside and you’re left with a nice neoprene tube.

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Sew velcro

Sew a 1″ – 1.5″ piece of 3/4″ wide velcro onto one end of the strap and the corresponding piece of velcro onto the other. Adjust placement for optimal fit.

Trim off excess neoprene from the strap.

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Make elastic loops

Sew one end of the 1/4″ wide elastic banding onto the strap in the center. Cut the elastic at about 1.5″ in length and sew it onto another short piece of the 3/4″ wide elastic.

Then, sew the two ends of the 3/4″ elastic in place on the strap so that it holds the tilt sensor tightly in place, forming a 1″ loop.

We basically made a small cradle or harness for the sensor out of elastic.

The strap is now complete.

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Build your relay board

The relay board receives the signals from the sensor and triggers the now hacked Atari controller.

Make a board to house the 5 relays using this .cdr file. To make this board, use either wood, acrylic or standard circuit board material and drill out the holes as pictured.

Insert the 5 relays into the center of the board. The 5 relays are controlling each of the four cardinal directions and the fire button.

Don’t connect Pin 1 to the PIC chip yet. Instead just attach a red wire to Pin 1 on each relay.

Also, don’t connect the Atari controller cable yet (as pictured).

Wire together Pin 8 on all of the relays using black wire.

Wire together every Pin 7 with black wire. Extend a long black wire from Pin 7 on Relay 1.

The board has some extra holes to thread the wires through. Using these holes will prevent connections from breaking.

(Please not that the relay really only has 8 pins in total. So, when I say Pin 8 I am really referring to what should be Pin 5. I’m not exactly sure why they give you 3 invisible pins on each side, but that’s just how it goes I guess.)

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Open the controller

Open the Atari controller.

Remove the circuit board.

With diagonal cutters or a pair of pliers, remove any excess plastic that isn’t used to fasten the controller shut.

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Jack it

Cut a small square hole into which you will insert the telephone handset jack.

Glue this in place with epoxy and/or hot glue.

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Hack the Atari controller

If you are lucky, your Atari controller will be labeled nicely like ours was to inform you which wire connects to which button.

If its not labeled, it is fair to assume that the black wire is ground and the 5 remaining wires are for the four cardinal directions and the trigger button.

You can figure this out easily by trial and error. Start a game, plug in your controller and connect each wire, one by one, to the black ground wire and see what happens on the screen. You should find that each wire represents a different direction (or the trigger button). If it doesn’t, you have selected the wrong ground wire and you need to keep trying.

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Controller to relays

Wire the Atari controller to the relays.

Pin 8 on all of the relays should be connected together, and in turn connected to the black wire from the controller. This is because all of the button controls on the controller board share a common ground pin.

Pin 14 on each relay should have a different colored wire from the controller soldered to it. In other words, each relay should be connected to a unique colored wire.

(Please not that the relay really only has 8 pins in total. So, when I say Pin 8 I am really referring to what should be Pin 5. I’m not exactly sure why they give you 3 invisible pins on each side, but that’s just how it goes I guess.)

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Build a circuit board

Build a circuit board for your PIC micro controller using the two schematics listed below.

The 20 MHZ component is a resonator and not a crystal. It should be as close to the chip as possible. To make it work with a PCB you may need to bend the middle ground leg forward and the other two in towards each other so they can fit into the socket side by side.

All of the relay connections on the PIC diagram connect to Pin 1 on the relay board diagram. For instance, Pin 35 connects to Relay 1, Pin 1.

The rest should be pretty straight forward.

Be careful not to miss any wiring the first time around (like I did).

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Attach the power cord

Cut the end of your power transformer.

Locate the positive and ground wire inside the transformer’s cable and expose a little bit of wire from each cable.

Plug in the transformer and test to make certain you know which wire is which and that the voltage written on the transformer is correct (sometimes they mislabel it).

Once you are certain that the polarity and voltage are corrected, solder it to the board.

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Program the chip

Program your PIC chip with the code you tested earlier.

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Transfer the chip

Transfer the chip from your development board to your circuit board.

Be careful not to bend any pins!

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Troubleshoot

Test to make sure it works.

If it works continue on.

If it does not work check the following:
- Is it plugged in?
- Are your relays working? If you listen carefully you should hear them click?
- Is your chip programmed?
- Is your wiring correct?
- Are there any crossed wires on your board? Is you chip getting hot?
- Is your phone socket wired correctly?
- Did you leave off any components?

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Insert tissue

Remove the ‘stick’ from the top of the old joystick box and replace it with some tissues. This is for form and function.

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Close the case

Using hot glue, glue the red button in place permanently. This is for form only.

Cut a small notch in one side for the power cable to pass through.

Cover the PIC chip in electrical tape to prevent it being shorted by the relay board.

Knot the power cable and insert the circuit board and relay board into the case.

Put the tissue-enhance top on and screw it shut.

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Coat the sensor in silicone

The base sensor needs to be protected from certain environmental conditions, so we decided to coat the whole thing in silicone. This also helps protect all of the fragile wires and wiring.

The Art Stuff brand silicone we used gets mixed in a one part to ten ratio. I made a small batch of 20 grams of part A to 2 grams of part B. I used a really small amount of blue silicone pigment to turn the silicone from clear to blue. Note, the dye is for form only.

Mix the two parts of the silicone together thoroughly and paint it onto the base in a thin coat. Apply it all over the sensor, accept for the top of the phototransistor.

Use multiple coats to achieve proper protection. Allow it to dry overnight between coats.

Remember to wear nitrile gloves and to work in a well ventilated area.

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Putting it all together

Insert the tilt mechanism into the loop on the strap.

Plug the phone cord into the jack in the Atari controller.

Plug in the power brick and attach the Atari controller to the console.

Attach the neoprene strap and sensor to the user.

Insert the battery into the emitter ring and place it on your ring finger.

You are now ready to begin playing.

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Play

Play Atari with yourself and friends in the manner that you always dreamed of and never have to decide between sexual stimulation and video games again.

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